Financially as well as environmentally, if you are building your own home, it is increasingly making sense to build eco homes. Done properly, not only are there huge running cost savings to be made from an eco build, but also an element of future proofing when it comes to current value and future resale value, if and when you come to sell.
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For many though, providing a family-safe, non-toxic home and reducing the environmental impact while still enjoying the comforts of modern living remains the main motivation. It doesn’t mean you have to build with straw bales or rammed earth, though these are options; most successful eco builds are very conventional in appearance. But it is much more than just choosing environmentally friendly materials and paint.
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The main priority should be designing a home which reduces energy use and therefore production of CO2 which is whats been blamed for climate change. Conserving water comes a close second.
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Consider the following, especially if you normally worry about your car use, or the advent of cheap flights – these stats I found from the UK energy wise website.
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* Homes in the UK use three times more energy than all our cars.
* Buildings are the fastest-growing source of the UK’s CO2 emissions, currently responsible for 46 per cent, with homes responsible for 27 per cent.
* More than half – 56 per cent – of water supplied is for households, and demand continues to increase.
* Energy use in non-domestic buildings is increasing as fast as fuel for air travel.
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When you think of an eco home you need to look at all the angles. These include the location of the materials ie where they come from and how they’re transported. Who is making and transporting these materials and here do they get their training from. A big thing is are they local people so you are putting back something into the local economy.
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Building an energy efficient eco house is highly technical, so it is important to check credentials and skills, which are currently in short supply. And you need to properly understand the concept. People are getting the wrong messages. Tacking stuff like a wind generator onto your roof won’t do it; you have to look at the fabric of the building, otherwise everything else is bolted on. Also if you build a 300 sq m mansion it can never be an eco build. Build to your limits.
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If you’re building from scratch, even your dream home, it makes sense to consider its marketability should you want to sell. Meanwhile the social housing market already insists builders conform to various eco requirements, such as energy efficiency, as well as considering the local environment. One thing that is coming to New Zealand is double glazing in new builds.
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Will it Cost More?
In the past as recently as the 1980s, we were limited by a very small supply of the materials alone. But things have changed. You can now build a low energy house as cheaply as you can build a standard house. There are now more and more places that will help you build an energy efficient home and as more and more people invest in these homes it’s becoming more affordable.
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The building budget is always going to be an issue but you have to take into account cost over the lifetime of the property as well as the initial cost. That includes the running costs where owners can look forward to major savings. This is because at this time the supply is and manufacture of the materials to build and eco home are still not common.
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Here are some of the things you should look out to do when you build a new energy efficient home.
 
* Insulation, throughout the house; make sure it is not compromised too by building construction, eg the accidental creation of ‘thermal bridges’ allowing heat to travel out; design should also include airtightness and ventilation.
* Water: conserve and minimise use of water. The average person uses 140 litres per day but should aim to reduce this.
* Energy: includes using natural materials such as wood for burning to heat water while renewable energy systems including wind turbines and solar panels.
* Lighting: should maximize the use of natural light, while energy efficient lighting is used throughout.
* Electrical appliances: eliminating the need for some eg providing a clothes natural drying space, while ensuring A++ energy efficient standard for others.
* Materials: consider those which are natural and from a renewable source; use locally grown timber; also more durable wood such as heartwood which reduces the need for preservatives. Look at the energy involved in production/transportation, and use manufacturers which can provide such information. Avoid PVC.
* Recycle or reuse where possible.
April 21 2009 | Buyers and Sellers and sustainable houses | No Comments »
This is an interesting article from the Herald Website which is further indicating that the market could be improving. My honest opinion is that the facts below are just the spike that naturally occurs at this time of year. The numbers we are experiencing are well below what we have known for many years. Our economy is going to be hit hard over this coming year with many mortgagee sales fueling what will be a very volatile market. The building consents that are signaled below are a sign that the market could be improving as their is some renewed interest as the interest rates drop to low levels. But maybe this is over as well as the banks increase these rates. It will be an interesting winter to watch and see what happens. Below also is a graph from the govt.org website of building consents issued in NZ. You can see clearly the downward trend of consents issued and the sharp decline since about March 07.
Building consent figures for February improved from January’s deep hole, but remain low.
Last month 1059 dwellings were authorised, of which 193 were apartments, Statistics New Zealand (SNZ) said today. In February 2008, 1874 dwellings were authorised.
Seasonally adjusted, the total number of new dwellings was up 12 per cent in February after falling 13 per cent in January. When apartments are excluded the improvement in February was just 0.3 per cent.
January’s total of 812 consents was the lowest monthly total since that series started in 1965.
The value of residential building consents in February was $358 million, down 42 per cent from February 2008, SNZ said.
Non-residential building consents were worth $382m for the month, up 5.8 per cent from a year earlier.
This morning’s building consents come as the recession puts a halt to many construction plans around New Zealand, including Wellington.
Funding has been pulled on the luxury $200 million Watermark development in Wellington, and other apartment buildings around the city have also halted construction.
Dougal List from the planning department at the Wellington City Council said resource consents were down 10 to 15 per cent from the same time last year.
Applications for commercial buildings and renovations remained strong but the pace of activity was much slower than it was 12 months ago. He said many people are looking to get consents in place so they can develop once the market picks up in a year or two.
List said the main casualty in the market was multi-unit developments which has almost completely dropped off as developers struggle to get finance.
Statistics NZ said that as with the previous month, the value of consents for residential buildings in February was below the non-residential value. Before January the last time that happened was June 1998.
For all buildings, consents had a value of $740m last month, down 24 per cent from February 2008.
In the year to February, residential building consents were down 26 per cent from a year earlier to $5.77 billion, non-residential consents rose 5.5 per cent to $4.59b, and for all buildings the value was down 15 per cent to $10.36b.
March 30 2009 | The Market | No Comments »
There is probably no better way to become aware of the condition of a home than to have your home inspected by a licensed inspector. However, there are several considerations on which only you, as the purchaser, can decide. And, as I’ve said in other articles, it’s my belief there are some things you must do yourself: Manage your money. Raise your children. And, also… purchase your home!
1.   Location, location, location…
Probably the most important factor is that your new neighbourhood is a good fit. Take some time to drive around the area and make sure you like it. Check out the traffic at rush hour – if the home you like is on a main street, make sure the traffic noise won’t be a problem for you.
Additional location considerations might include: Where are the closest schools? Having schools nearby can be great if you have young children yourself. It can be rather annoying with noise or traffic, if you don’t! Does the lot back to a wash? If you have cats or a small dog, they might be at risk to urban coyotes and other wildlife. Is there an alley? Alleys have both positive and negative features. They provide a buffer between you and the back neighbor, but they also give opportunities for clandestine behavior since they are relatively private.
You might want to check the crime statistics for the area, something you can find by googling “neighborhood crime data” along with the community of your choice. You may also go to the county sex offender registry and make sure you are comfortable with your neighbors. I
Check into nearby vacant lots. You never know when the lot your kids play on will be developed into something you might not want to have as a neighbour.
You can even ask your agent to speak with your potential new neighbors. Find out if there is any unreported crime; ask if there is a rock band that practices all afternoon. Find out if there is a problem neighbor at whose address the police have a reserved parking spot. Ask the immediate neighbors if they plan any major remodeling or additions. This could lead to a year of construction vehicles and noise from sunrise to sunset. A few minutes of due diligence can prevent an unhappy ownership situation.
Make sure the lot has good features; i.e. not located in a flood area, and not the lowest lot in the area (sure to be 3 inches deep in water every time it rains). Generally this is not a big issue because most municipalities will not give a building permit for such areas.Â
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2.   What do I really need…?
The home you pick should meet whatever needs you or your family have. Think about the future. Having kids? Already have kids? Kids leaving? Getting married? How big a home do you need, how many bedrooms and bathrooms? For later resale, the most popular single family home is a 3 bedroom 2 bath home. Homes with only 1 bathroom or only 2 bedrooms are more difficult to sell than the more standard 3/2.
Take the family and spend a little time in the home. Spend a couple hours, especially during the morning or afternoon rush hour. Make sure the noise and activity levels are acceptable, and make sure the home has all the conveniences you like.
Is a pool important? Somewhere to relax on those hot summer weekends? Be sure to inspect the pool closely, using a professional inspector. Pool maintenance can be quite expensive and time consuming. I personally do not have a pool service, instead I have an automatic chlorinator and an automatic pool sweeper. These items are a significant up front expense, but can yield years of virtually maintenance free pool enjoyment. Insist that all pool equipment be in excellent working condition.
3.   Last year’s remodel… this year’s nightmare?
Many older homes may have been converted from a one bath to a two-bath home. You can usually tell. Make a careful inspection and see if this was done.
Sometimes a master bath has been divided and made into two bathrooms. If the remodel was done well and permitted (a permit was obtained from the municipality), this is a better situation than a poorly done, unpermitted change. You can often find permit information at the city planning office.
Sometimes additional square footage has been added to a home, either by converting the garage into a bedroom or office, or by enclosing the patio. Telltale signs of this might be: No garage, or a garage door that is still there but has no purpose; a slanting floor (garage floors and patios often slant to provide drainage); unusually low ceilings in one room; no air conditioning vents in the room; an outdoor carriage light on the wall of the room; a room with one cinderblock wall and 3 wood frame walls.
Some homes built with a carport have had the carport enclosed. This is an inexpensive and useful remodel, provided it was done correctly and with the proper permits. Things to check for: A window from the house into the garage; garage door is not self closing and/or is not a solid core door; one garage wall is block, the other walls frame; no power outlets on the garage walls except on the back wall.
Look at the flooring in the home. Flooring is an upgrade many homeowners attempt on their own, but without sufficient skills. Often before selling, owners will rip out old carpeting and install laminate wood flooring. Look for the seams in the laminate; one of the more difficult things for the unskilled installer is to plan the job appropriately so that the seams in the flooring come out right, with no gaps. Further, many installations run right up to the baseboard – sometimes there are two baseboards, the old original and then the new baseboard to cover the gaps from the flooring!
The proper installation is generally to remove the old baseboards so that the flooring is seamless from wall to wall and only a single baseboard is installed. New baseboards should be installed – this minor step costs little and makes a big difference. You can often see a discoloration at the bottom of the old baseboard where the carpet used to be. And, most do-it-yourselfers are not good at mitering the corners and fitting the baseboards perfectly. Just look at the joints and the corners – you will be able to tell, easily, whether the installation was done well.
Tile is another homeowner do-it-yourself favorite, and again, without the proper skills, the job can look terrible close up. Uneven levels in the tiles, grout lines that are not straight, and poorly done corners are just a few examples. Just look at the work, you will be able to tell whether it was done professionally or not.
Finally, look for additions. This is often evidenced by one part of the home leaning away from another part – look at where outside walls meet. Look at joints in the outside walls and see if they are pulling away from each other. Look at the flooring in the home at the same point; if there is carpeting, it is harder to tell, but sometimes the addition will have a different slope from the main part of the house.
For information about remodel work, trust your home inspector. This sort of thing is often more cosmetic, but might make a big difference upon resale.
4.   Who built the ark? OR….
How is the home constructed? Some older homes are slump block, and this is a wonderful thing, as the utility bills will be substantially less than for a frame house. These homes stay warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.
While my personal favorite construction is slump block, a close second would be block homes. With these homes, you may find the cable TV companies complain when they have to drill through the block to add an outlet! Block or brick, or some form of masonry, can provide a strong, stable framework that has inherently good insulating qualities.
For some time, homes were literally built by framing the home, wrapping it with insulation and chicken wire, and then using a gunite machine to spray stucco on the outside. I know I am not characterizing this very well, but it is probably the bargain basement construction method. Unless this process is completed carefully, the stucco can develop cracks. Newer homes are built with framing, then engineered wood (plywood or particle board), then insulation and stucco. This is much more stable than chicken wire over framing!
Any of these construction methods, done properly, are acceptable. My opinion is that the risk of problems is lower with masonry of some sort.
When my grandparents bought their last home they did not check any of the electrical outlets. The inspector verified that they worked, but the brand used by the contractor must have been the very cheapest, because none of them will hold onto a plug – the spring action is so weak that the plug literally falls out of the outlets, this is just something to keep an eye out for.
Similarly, look at the valves under the sink and toilet. Make sure the lines are copper and not galvanized. Galvanized pipe, installed in the 70’s, will almost surely be rusty and possibly leaking now, 35-40 years later. Insist on a repipe to copper at the seller’s expense. Have your inspector make sure the plumbing is copper.
I like to make sure the inspector checks the shut off valves under the sinks and toilets, because in older homes, they are often frozen and impossible to use. If there is any evidence of leaking, have the seller replace them with new ones which are less prone to freezing. When you have to have your sink or toilet worked on, you won’t have to shut off water to the entire house for half a day.
5.   Rules, rules and more rules…
who ever your agent is they should make sure you get a copy of any Covenants, Conditions and Restrictions on the property. These are rules associated with a property which are part of the deed and run with the land.Â
Other things to think about (this list is by no means complete):
-Â Â Â Cost of homeowner’s insurance
-Â Â Â Taxes/Rates
-Â Â Â Utility costs
-Â Â Â Garbage pickup / bulk pickup
-Â Â Â Neighborhood watch
-Â Â Â Internet service
- Â Â Sky
-Â Â Â Street condition, paving
-Â Â Â Security system
-Â Â Â Paint condition
-Â Â Â Driveway condition
-Â Â Â Roof condition
-Â Â Â Age of air conditioners
-Â Â Â Septic or sewer?
-Â Â Â Age of faucets and other fixtures and their condition
-Â Â Â Type of electrical wiring (aluminum, copper?), electrical panel, breakers
-Â Â Â Condition of shower enclosure and tub area (mold?)
-Â Â Â Insurance claims history
-Â Â Â Street utility manhole in front of house?
-Â Â Â Distance to fire hydrant?
-Â Â Â Water pressure?
-Â Â Â Condition of watering system for grass, shrubs?
Finding the perfect home for you and your family should be an enjoyable experience. I hope these guidelines will help you in your search and home buying experience! Good luck.
February 08 2009 | Buyers | 1 Comment »
This guide should help both sellers and buyers to make the selling of your house to make the whole thing a lot more transparent. A good builder friend from New Zealand Home Inspections and me have put this together so that you may use it to your advantage. The information is probably the same as what you already know but it is good to have a check list. To use this properly I recommend to PRINT THIS OUT and take it with you when you go to inspect the home you are interested in.
For sellers this is what buyers will look out for:
For buyers this is what you need to look out for.
There are many things you need to look out for but these are the main and obvious ones you can look at without needing a builder.
Doors
- Does each door panel open and shut without obstruction of the door frame?
- Is the door panel a true rectangle shape or has it been planed to fit the frame?
Tip: Check for uneven gaps at the top and bottom of the door panel, if it is uneven maybe the piles have sunk.
Windows
- Attempt to open and close each window.
- Look for condensation and damp damage.
- Are there any cracked panels of glass?
Tip: Often timber frames are patched and painted with fiberglass filler, look for irregularities in the paint surface. Fiberglass filler and putties are only a short term repair they usually hide much worse damage.
Wall & Ceiling Surfaces
- From the door way openings look at the line of the wall is there any buckling.
- Solid brick walls may have damp issues, are there any mould stains or irregular areas of fresh paint.
- Check the level of the ceilings is even and consistent or is there a lot of patch repair and damp stains.
- If it is a solid brick wall check for damp and mould markings along the floor level.
Tip: Shine a torch from an angel at the wall and ceiling surfaces, this can highlight patch repairs and thin paint cover.
Tip: Sagging in the ceiling can indicate a past roof leak and should signal close attention to the condition of the roof and its performance.
Kitchen
- Look for damp stains at the junction of the splash back and kitchen sink.
- Check under the kitchen sink common leaks occur in the waste pipes.
- Take a hold of the plumbing from under the sink/bench top and give a firm but gentle shake to ensure the fittings are secure.
Tip: Many cook top exhaust systems are installed without an external vent. Open the cupboards above the exhaust system and look for signs of excess cooking fat. Is the cupboard shallow or has there been no feasible space for a flue to be provided. Check the roof line above the kitchen to see if an external flue exists above the location of the kitchen.
Bathroom(s)
- Turn taps on and off.
- How long for hot water to start running?
- Check under sink for leaks.
- Check for any grout or sealant missing from the edge of shower bases, bath tubs and tiles.
- Check for installation of an exhaust fan.
- Check that shower screens open and close without damage.
Tip: Often tap handle leaks occur from behind the tiled surface. If there is good sub floor access and some one is with you ask them to turn the taps on and off as you look from under the house for any drips.
Laundry
- Usually the simplest of service areas to inspect check that the trough is secured in place, check for rust and ensure that there is a seal between the trough and the wall.
- The wall behind the trough should be tiled.
- For apartments pay particular attention to the location of an overflow drain pipe in the floor surface.
Tip: Make sure you open the door of the trough cupboard; some troughs are painted up for sale but the internal casing may be significantly affected by rust.
Toilet(s)
- Flush Toilet while viewing the area behind the seat look for leaks at the cistern and waste pipes. Aged rubber seals should be replaced.
- Check for excessive use of silicon sealant this is a sign of leakage and poor quality repair.
- Listen for water that is still running after the cistern has been filled � It should come to a stop � not continue forever.
Tip: Gently nudge your knee against the toilet pan, if it moves the mounting screws are loose and you will be prone to leakage from waste and cistern pipe seals. Secure and service seals.
Tip: The flush valve within a cistern requires servicing to ensure no water wastage occurs.
Roof Frame
- Seek to determine the type of timber used. If possible access the roof space.
- Hardwood timber indicates that you may endure the sound of roof creaks and also cracks in ceiling plaster during the change of seasons.
- A Pine Timber is used in prefabricated trusses and is usually much more stable.
- View the roof from the street, does it appear uniform or are there wave like patterns in the surface.
Tip: Pay close attention to areas around roof skylights and air conditioning services, poor quality trade services have been known to saw through critical roof timbers during installation.
Roof Cover & Drainage
- Check that Iron roofs are free of rust, pay close attention to the roof colour as it is not uncommon to find that owners have painted over rust damage.
- Look for faded colour on concrete tiles to indicate the need for new sealant.
- Look for cracked mortar pointing along the ridge, hip and valley tiles.
- Check of rust marks along valley iron, gutters and down pipes.
- Is there any rust or water marks on the timber and eave lining beneath the roof line, this indicates leakage?
- Check that down pipes are connected to a storm water pipe at ground level and not just left to discharge rain water at the base of the house.
Tip: Tiled roofs deteriorate with age also and concrete tiles in particular require new sealant after about 25 years, they otherwise can become porous and deteriorate at a rapid rate. The sealant then needs to be applied again every 7- 10 years to ensure the material quality of the tile is preserved.
Tip: Terra cotta roof tiles that are older than 50 years of age have a very unpredictable performance quality and professional servicing becomes very costly, the tiles become very brittle and can not be walked on.
External Wall Surface
- Check the lines in the timber weather boards; they may have sagging or bowed lines if the structure has moved.
- Check for damp rot adjacent to window openings, plumbing and at ground level.
- Cracks in brick work that are of a significant concern would normally be obvious as large cracks. Pay particular attention around door and window openings, this is where the first signs of movement usually occurs.
- Scrape the mortar joins within a brick wall with a screwdriver, if it is removed freely and has a dusty quality. The joints may need to be raked and pointed with new mortar.
Tip: Damp rot usually starts at the join in timber weatherboard, timber at the corners of a house are at highest risk of having damp rot damage.
Tip: Pay close attention to walls adjacent to large trees for concern of the root structure causing damage.
Sub Floor Area
- Check the material quality of the stumps; probe the base of the stumps with a large screwdriver.
- Check the soil surface under the house for any water courses.
- If it is on a concrete slab check that garden bed levels are kept below the line of the internal floor level.
There should be a fall in the surface of the ground adjacent to the building perimeter that directs surface water away from the house.
The next two things you will most likely want a professionals opinion on.
Plumbing Service
- Check the outgoing pipe at the water meter to determine the material used for the main supply line.
- Check waste pipes for cracks and broken seals.
Tip: Galvanised pipes are a cause of poor quality water and poor pressure; they should be updated for Copper or PVC. If the pipes are dirty scratch through the surface, a silver colour indicates galvanized pipe and copper colour, copper pipe.
Tip: It is only a licensed plumber whom can provide a truly professional accurate indication of the plumbing service. They will use specialized testing equipment and pressure tests and pin point exact location of leaks or failure in the waste plumbing. A typical pre-purchase building inspection will only provide a general overview.
Electrical Service
- Open the fuse box and observe whether it contains a fuse wire system or a modern circuit breaker system.
- Check for the physical presence of an Earth Leakage Safety Switch.
- If there is an opportunity to view the roof space or under house area look for the use of wiring cable that is of a white colour, this is usually the modern standard.
- Black coloured cable and the use of timber cable trays cause certain concern for the need of a wiring update.
Tip: Only a licensed electrician can provide an accurate test and assessment of a home wiring service and safety. A building inspector’s comments will only relate to a visual observation as to whether there have been wiring and or fuse box updates.
Tip: Make installation and testing of a Safety Switch a number one priority upon purchasing a new home.
Deon Swiggs
Property Profits
August 08 2008 | Buyers and Sellers | 2 Comments »
